I try to subvert clichés, but I'm unable to avoid the cliché expected of every Romantic: I love Paris!
I’m glad Anthony Bourdain felt the same way, decreeing it “one of the greatest, most beautiful, most magical cities in the world.” It’s exactly how I feel. Any place that values cheese, croissants, chocolate, cinema, and, evidently, other words with the letter ‘c’ is all right by Cathleen! I also love the French’s need for a dinner reservation. ("RSVP" is short for “Répondez s’il vous plaît.”)
I also had plenty of time to explore and wander, and I knew what was and wasn’t worth seeking out because I have some very honest cosmopolitan friends. (The Moulin Rouge was a resounding “AVOID.”)
Here are some of my recommendations for your trip to Paris, broken into the following categories: cafes, restaurants, bars, people watching hotspots, museums, books about Paris/France, French tips.
Cafés
Café de Flore
My first day in Paris: I landed, rode in a car to the hotel, dropped off my bags, and walked straight to Café de Flore. I decided it was the best place to begin my time in Paris. I waited in a fifteen-minute line, made friends with the people behind me, and got a table for one. I ordered a hot chocolate with cream and a croissant and sat next to an older man in a pop art sweater. There was a group of six British girls (possibly on a hen trip) across from me who very loudly told their waiter that he did not give them proper service. The French man next to me stood up and shamed the British girls: “This is France! You don't talk to waiters like that!” he exclaimed. It was an astounding moment to witness and felt comically similar to a sub-plot from an Emily in Paris episode. I told the man, “Right on!” when he sat down.
I know some people say this is a tourist trap. Don’t listen to them. Oscar Wilde loved this place; I love this place; Ina Garten loves this place; that’s all the reason you need.
To get in the mood, listen to “Love In The Time of Socialism” by Yellow House. There’s a line about Café de Flore, which helps anyone struggling on their French pronunciation.
For my history buffs, before World War II, Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir were a couple of the Existentialists who frequent Café de Flore. Albert Camus also frequented, choosing to sit on the opposite side of the room from Sartre. Truman Capote also stopped by whenever he was in Paris.
I read that “discussions at the ‘philo-café’ are held upstairs on the first Wednesday of the month, from 7 p.m. to 9 p.m.” I haven’t done it myself, but I’d love for you to tell me your experiences.
Les Deux Magots
Let’s say you’re intimidated by the line at Café de Flore. Good news. Literally down the street on Saint-Germain is Les Deux Magots. I personally think you should do both de Flore and Deux Magots when you visit. Chances are one will speak to you more.
Between de Flore and Deux Magots, Deux Magots is a little bit less tourist-y. It was significantly less crowded when I went. Overall, it’s understandable why this place resonated with Ernest Hemingway. He even wrote The Sun Also Rises here and used the cafe as the setting. The Surrealists—Man Ray, Max Ernst and Joan Miró—also set up camp in this cafe. They would situate the table in front of the door to commentate on anyone who entered.
Order a pot of hot chocolate à l’ancienne or the Viennese hot chocolate, which is much thicker. Why? There’s egg yolk in there. This is what I got when I went, and I definitely did not know that then. The desserts are from Pierre Hermé.
Carette
Another popular and iconique Paris spot. This is a chain throughout the city. I went to the one closest to the Louvre and had an all-too delightful afternoon eavesdropping by myself. As tastemaker Madame de Sevigné said of the hot chocolate—chocolat chaud—, it will “make the most unpleasant company seem good to you.” To that, I say salut.
Musee de la Vie Romantique
The museum itself is very small. You can cruise through it in 30 minutes. It’s also really just a museum of a group of friends’ stuff. I was amused by the idea of turning the UWS townhouse my college friends and I lived in into a museum with hairballs and all. In a century, that could honestly make a rather great collection.
The reason I recommend Musee de la Vie Romantique isn't for the museum. In fact, you can skip the museum. The reason I recommend it is for its cafe. It’s beautiful, so tranquil. I did a virtual meeting from here and had a lovely time catching up on correspondence.
When you go, try the museum IF you aren't pressed for time. (It’s free, why not.) You can come to your own conclusion on the collection and then unwind in the cafe.
KB Cafe Shop
This is more coffee shop than Paris cafe, if that makes sense. I had a great time. An old Frenchman hit on me, and the entire ordeal was so cliche that I heartily laughed as it was happening and thoroughly confused him.
That aside, KB is located in SoPi (Southern Pigalle) near Montmartre. Very good coffee with roasts from Ethiopia, Columbia, Guatemala, and Indonesia and creates its own signature blends. I don’t drink iced coffee, but if you do, they have that here. That’s notable for Paris.
Cafe Buci
This was a recommendation from my friend Caroline, and it was the perfect last-day meal. It’s very French. I particularly liked the graffiti near our table that read, “I did cocaine in the bathroom with Willie Nelson.” I love running into fellow Texans abroad.
Pastries
Boris Lumé
I have questions for myself. Why didn’t I try every croissant I came across in Paris? I think I only had three. One of them was Boris Lumé near Montmartre, and it was so good that maybe I decided I didn’t need any more. According to some list somewhere, they won “Best Pure Butter Croissants” and that was apparently enough for me. The next time I’m in France, I’ll have a more robust ranking for you.
I will always think fondly of my early morning visit here. After getting my croissant and heading on my walk to the steps of the Sacre Couer, I saw a man in his workout outfit, sweaty from a run, holding a fresh baguette under his arm. How Parisian!
The Ritz
I rarely tap out when it comes to dessert. The (shockingly reasonable) dessert tea service at the Ritz knocked me out. I can't recommend it enough for high tea!
Restaurants
Le Grand Colbert
I have a whole story about this place, but I'll get to that some other day. Here is a selfie designer Gaby Basora and I took with our maitre’d. I had a magical time here. I trust you will, too.
Maxim’s
Allegedly "the most famous restaurant in the world." I take that with the same grain of salt as the Hotel Frontenac in Quebec City, which is allegedly "the most photographed hotel in the world." Regardless, Maxim's is definitely worth visiting. I still think about the risotto and fish from this night.
The décor looks as if the last time it was touched was during the Belle Epoque. From every angle, sumptuous!
Les Temps des Cerises
Just to look at this little house with its eighteenth-century mosaic façade is worth the trek, but what if I told you the food is quintessential French fare? Get a reservation for the beginning of dinner service, and get here early. While you’re sitting in the empty restaurant, you’ll think, “I don’t know why Cathleen insisted I get here early. Seems rather silly to me.” Give it fifteen minutes. The place will fill up, and you’ll be glad you were there before that happened.
I didn’t hear any English while I was there. It was filled with local patrons. This is also where I tried escargot for the first time. I’m an escargot a go go girl now. Thanks, Les Temps des Cerises.
When my mom visited me in Paris, this was our first reservation and her first meal of the trip. I got gold stars for taking her, and it set the tone for her entire Paris vacation.
Chez Georges
I'd go there now if I could. A magical, serendipitous place. It's like the Galatoire's of Paris. (Galatoire's is an iconic New Orleans restaurant, which is a true dining expereince.)
Le Train Bleu
This place is absolutely beautiful. The food is great. The service is impeccable.
Le Train Bleu is a must-visit for Mr. Bean fans. (It's where he dines before taking the train to Cannes and has that infamous seafood tower.)
My mom and I had a spectacular time here and met lovely people. I hope the same for you when you go!
Le Procope
My mom was hesitant when we sat down in this despuis-1686 restaurant. “I thought it was going to be a tourist trap,” she confesses. How wrong we were! The food was excellent. As my mom said, “This was finger-lickin’ good!”
You pay by QR code, which I understand sounds awful. Here you are in the OLDEST continuously cafe, and you’re paying by means of your hi-tec phone screen. That was a bit jarring. But other than this unseemly detail, I do think you should try to go.
A good song to play before going is anything from The Marriage of Figaro. According to Katrina Lawrence, “On the evening of the première of The Marriage of Figaro, Caron de Beaumarchais waited at Le Procope — just down the road, at 13 Rue de l’Ancienne-Comédie — to see if his play would be judged a success. He surely celebrated long and hard that night, before rolling home …”
I went here again with my boyfriend and his parents, and it was every bit as good as I remembered.
Une Verre du Vin ou Une Bierre
Hotel Lutetia
James Joyce was a regular! It's a beautiful bar. (But a little pricier than you'd expect...)
Harry’s New York Bar
Welcome home, Americans. This feels more like an Old New York institution than a Parisian bar, hence the incredibly a propos name. It’s where George Gershwin, Ernest Hemingway, and James Bond would go to feel like they’re back in the States. Gershwin even composed An American in Paris on the piano here.
From Atlas Obscura: "Its address, 5 Rue Daunou, was the bar’s calling card, with advertisements in the international press running a tagline telling visitors to simply ask taxi drivers to head to ‘Sank Roo Doe Noo.’”
Between you and me, the non-Franco places in Paris were often the least friendliest I visited. None of the Americans here wanted to chit chat or rendezvous. (I know, BOOOO!) But at least the hot dogs were very, very good.
I loved the atmosphere and decor (spot the colleges your friends and family went to and send them a picture. If they’re anything like my brothers, they’ll be completely underwhelmed.) Please appreciate the bar flies logo and enjoy the fact that you’re now part of the International Bar Flies Club.
I also found my alma mater Fordham on the wall with this pennant here.
I really want some of the Rowing Blazers x Harry’s Bar merchandise. Maybe one day. I didn’t even lead with this information, but Harry’s Bar is apparently responsible for the Bloody Mary drink. I know 21 Club claimed that, but they’re gone now, so. . . Fernand Petiot (again, apparently) invented the Bloody Mary here in 1921. Harry MacElhone of “Harry’s New York Bar” concocted the French 75 with champagne, gin, lemon juice, and sugar. When he took a swig of that, it knocked him out like a French 75mm artillery shell.
And the hot dog was very, very good.
The Vendôme at the Ritz
You might think I mean Bar Hemingway, but I wouldn’t know because I haven't even gone in. There was a line, which I’m told is rather standard, so my mom and I decided to sit in the Vendôme. We had a grand time. The bar food was very good albeit a bit pricey, but this is the Ritz. We stayed for hours and had a divine time. We also met an interesting couple whose relationship dynamic I am still trying to decipher.
L'Hôtel
What a night this was. We went on Thursday for jazz in the bar lounge and met some very interesting people. (Simon is a tale for another day.) I'm a big Oscar Wilde fan, and this is where he lived and died. I'm sure you've heard his famous last words: "Either this wallpaper goes, or I do." This is where that wallpaper was.
While L'Hôtel was reek and squalid at that time, it is now a multi-starred hotel. I honestly think Oscar would love that.
Museums
Le Petit Palais
Probably one of my favorite places I have ever been to—ever. And, admission is free.
Musee de Rodin
I’m not a big Rodin fan. Not even of Rodin himself. But this is a beautiful place to visit. I will give credit where credit is due—The Thinker is great. Definitely worth seeing in person.
E. Dehillerin
This isn't a museum, but people visit it as if it were. Julia Child loved this 200+ year old cookery store so much that it's worth going just knowing she'd approve.
Musee Carnavalet
I found out about this from Mary Bly’s memoir, and I’m so grateful she noted it. This museum is devoted to the history of Paris from the ground up. It takes up two entire mansions—that isn’t hyperbole, it’s fact. There are over 2,600 paintings, 20,000 drawings, 300,000 engravings, 150,000 photographs, 2,000 modern sculptures, and 800 pieces of furniture in here. You’ll find Marie Antoinette’s personal belongings, paintings of the most beautiful woman in Paris, Marcel Proust’s room, a lock of Robespierre’s hair, and much, much, much more. And you don’t have to pay a thing.
I went by myself and was not expecting the lower level. It kind of spooked me out, it was so quiet. Again, this is one of those places where you may not hear a word of English. It’s not necessarily a tourist destination.
The Louvre
But of course! I definitely recommend getting a Skip The Line pass for the Louvre. It's an immense amount of people every day, much more than the Met in New York!
I'd also recommend getting a tour guide. This place is so huge, it'd be intimiating navigating by yourself. Plus, you have someone who is always ready to take your picture!
We used Hugo with Airbnb (I recommend Airbnb for experience outings, by the way!) Here is his listing.
People Watching
The Ritz.
Cafe de Flore
Outside the Lourve
Shakespeare & Co.
Au Petit Théâtre du Bonheur
The line outside Club Pachamama
L’Hôtel
Bring Me Back a Souvenir
Marin Montagut
My mom is always in the know and has known about Marin Montagut for years.
I want to get glassware and (more) journals from here next time I go.
The Paris Flea Market
Try the Saint-Ouen market and be charmed. Unrelated but memorable: this was also the worst-smelling Uber ride of my life. Here's to hoping that won't be topped.
Galerie Vivienne
It’s the most beautiful little mall of all.
Shakespeare & Co.
This is the most famous English-speaking bookstore in Paris. Next time I'm here, I'm getting another journal and tote bag.
Tender Tourist Traps Worth Getting Caught In
Notre Dame
For obvious reasons, you should always try seeing this. It's hard to miss, given its central location!
The Eiffel Tower
I love the Eiffel Tower... I get the hype now.
I didn't go until my second trip to Paris. It was very special to visit this landmark with my boyfriend and his parents.
Isn't it romantic?
Books to Read Before Visiting Paris
The Dud Avocado by Elaine Dundy
The Paris Review calls this book “rollicklingly pleasurable,” which is just the right amount of tongue in cheek for this delightful read.
A Moveable Feast by Ernest Hemingway
I really apologize for what I’m about to type. I loved this memoir by Ernest Hemingway. It was very well-written. I'm not a Hemingway fan, but the way I enjoyed reading this would make you think otherwise.
Breakfast in America by Craig Carlson
This is by an American business owner in Paris. It contextualized so much that I had heard about Paris bureaucracy but hadn’t fully pondered. I finished it at my friend’s jiu-jitsu match on the outskirts of Paris, and I was so enthralled, I didn’t even notice that I was in a gymnasium full of sweaty athletes.
Lunch in Paris by Elizabeth Bard
A very gastronomical journey of an expat's experience in Paris.
Paris in Love by Mary Bly
This is written by a Fordham at Lincoln Center professor who I had tacos with my freshman year of college. If I had read this book then, I would have loved asking her more about her time in Paris.
Artist in the Age of Revolution by Laura Auricchio
More on why here.
French Tips
Non, this will not be a guide on how to get the elusive French manicure, which is an American design, by the way.
Get some rudimentary French down. It’s a matter of respect to simply make an effort. This entails knowing when to say “bonjour” and “bonsoir.”
Bonjour= Good DAY
Bonsoir= Good EVENING
These are both greetings. If you’re leaving, saying “Bonne journée” or “Bonne soirée.” These mean "Have a good day" and "Have a good evening," in that order.
You'll likely need to ask for the check, which is "L'addition." Pronounce that like "lah-dish-on."
The only time I was chastised for pronunciation was when I wasn’t even speaking French. My friend and I were talking to a group of French 20-somethings outside of Club Pachamama and told them what we did that day. They completely teased us for our pronunciation of “the D’Orsay Museum” and repeated it back to us in thick American drawls. For the rest of the week, I was miffed by the teasing, but I have since seen the light. (Heard the light?) When you say “D’Orsay Museum” and “Musee D’Orsay” out loud to yourself, I can understand why that might have been jarring.
Let me back up and better define the differences between brasseries, bistros, restaurants, and cafés. If I use them nearly interchangably in this post, I apologize.
BRASSERIE: This originally meant brewery, but it's now considered an eatery with a full bar that serves classic French fare all day long, morning to night.
BISTRO: Like a brasserie, except these are usually only open for lunch and dinner and close between these meals. The menu is similar to brasseries and often features French fare, but typically limited.
RESTAURANT: Like a bistro in that they may be closed in between meals, but their menu is more extensive.
CAFES: Like brasseries, these are open day to night. But the food is much lighter.
On the topic of restaurants, they've managed a system of employment where tip is already incldued in your bill. This is hard to believe for Americans! (And not how it works in the US at all...) If your server was outstanding, tipping 5 to 10 percent is very generous!
Here's a heads up: Everyone smokes. Even the pigeons. They nip at discarded cigarette butts just as much as they do baguette crumbs. If you’re from post-Bloomberg New York, this will be off-putting. The sooner you move past it, the better your experience will be.
At restaurants, ask for “Une carafe d’eau, s’il vous plaît," if you'd like water.
And with that, bon voyage!
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